The Mountain Castle or Heart of Enlightenment...

Seemingly endless days of bus travel have left their mark. My life now seems to oscillate between Kafka and Conrad in equal measure, though more Buddhist versions of the two. I may still reach that elusive and difficult fieldwork goal.

Shixu now. 4200m in mid-nowhere. The monks of Ganzi have been replaced by feral dogs roaming the streets at night and sleepily growling during the day. Monks are around, just fewer. One approached me today asking if I was American. I told him English (Yingguoren). He then asked me about "he who must not be named". No, not Voldemort, but a particular Lama, who is not welcome in China. When I asked our Chinese students to help translate our fledgling conversation, he scurried away.

Onward to Luoxu...

Now, where IS Klamm?
K